Author: Nicola Dunkinson

February 4, 2016 UK Post a Comment

A foodie weekend in London…

With a wedding to attend in London last Saturday it only seemed right to spend a few nights there and do a bit of exploring. The ceremony was held at Islington Town Hall followed by a trip on an old London Bus to the reception at the London Canal Museum. I love a cool, quirky wedding! We stayed at a Travelodge right near Kings Cross station making it super easy to get about town. I miss the buzz of living in London, day and night something is always a going on, there are always places open and it is so easy to get around by catching the tube or jumping on a bus. We used Uber a lot too, which again was so easy, download the app, select your location and your destination, it lets you know how close a car is from you and gives you the driver’s name and car details.  Really great service and cheap too. I also love walking around London, using transport is great but you often don’t realise how close everything is and you get to discover so much more on foot…
So Sunday saw us head for brunch with friends in Islington. I lived in London for three years while I was studying at Roehampton University, more than ten years ago now…I feel old! But apart from Camden I never really explored this part of the city.  Islington is full of lovely London mews and narrow cobbled streets such as Islington High Street, full of antique shops, art galleries, vintage shops, coffee shops and restaurants. If you continue along to Camden Passage you will find the well-known Breakfast Club, so well-known that people will happily queue around the block for brunch! I really wanted to try it out but being a hungry monster we walked a couple of hundred yards further along and came across The Elk in the Woods. It was also very busy but with room on a shared table we snuck in. Wooden clad walls and vintage lights bulbs give this cool venue a Scandinavian feel. Brunch was delicious! Freshly squeezed juice, good coffee and avocado on toasted coriander rye with fried duck egg and char-grilled asparagus dippers, yum! Their produce is locally sourced too. With bellies full Matt and I decided to take a stroll along Regents Canal, it was pretty peaceful and nice to see a quieter part of central London. Colourful houseboats line the canal; we also came across a floating bookshop. Wandering past locks and under bridges was perfect.
Starting to feel peckish again we decided to walk to Shoreditch for more food! Shoreditch has a cool, gritty and edgy vibe going on, vintage shops, and buskers jamming under bridges. Boxpark is worth a visit, a shipping container pop up mall, it is full of cool eateries and market style shopping. Next was onto Old Spitalfields Market, this market is indoors and full of vintage fashion and funky products. I wanted to buy everything in sight, so Matt prised me away and upstairs to have a drink overlooking the market. Ethos does some great mocktails I had a tasty ginger and coconut concoction served in a handled jam jar. It was a nice place to sit and watch the world go by from our elevated position. Tired after all our exploring we headed back to our hotel for some quiet time and to get ready for dinner. Steak and Lobster was our chosen spot for the evening, as the name suggests the menu is as simple as it sounds! Steak or Lobster with unlimited fries and salad, there was also a veggie option too. I had grilled lobster, Matt went for steak. While the mains were delicious and the service started off really well, disappointingly at the point where Matt fancied a second round of fries and salad we struggled to get any attention from the staff and after requesting more they took so long to arrive Matt was pretty much finished which was a bit a shame. After all how long does it take to fry some extra potatoes and throw a bit of salad in a bowl? Especially when the menu advertised the ‘unlimited’ part so invitingly. Moaning aside we still enjoyed our meal and would look to give it a second chance. The final treat of the night was a sweet one; I was just saying how I’d love to find a dessert parlour when as if by magic we stumbled across Candys & Cream. Sundaes, waffles, pancakes, cookie dough and ice cream, yes! This was exactly what I wanted! We chose salted caramel and chocolate fudge brownie ice cream with white chocolate flakes, it was the perfect end to a tasty day!
January 26, 2016 Blogging, Iceland 3 Comments

Northern Lights Photography Tips…

During a recent trip to Iceland I was lucky enough to see the Northern Lights and capture them on camera, I went Aurora chasing with Iceland Travel on a super jeep tour.  January to March is a great time to go hunting for the Aurora Borealis due to the long dark nights.  In Iceland the sun sets at around 4pm during the winter months and doesn’t rise until 11am so there is plenty of time for stargazing.  The sky also needs to be mostly clear to get a good view of the lights.  If you are planning a trip to Iceland around the Northern Lights the Icelandic Met Office is a great website for checking on cloud cover up to six days in advance.  Of course these forecasts can often change so you may not have a perfect prediction until a few hours before you go hunting.
Hoping to capture the Northern Lights on camera? Look no further here are my top tips…

 

Things you need:
Camera: Ideally a DSLR or a camera that you can control the settings on manually, I initially tried to take photos using my iPhone and had no luck whatsoever!
Tripod: As all the images will be long exposures you need to ensure the camera doesn’t move during the exposure.
Shutter release: To minimise camera shake, alternatively set the camera timer to 2 seconds.

 

Setting up your shot:
  1. Mount the camera on the tripod and make sure it is level, most tripods have a spirit level.
  1. Have the lens set to the widest it will go and compose the image.
  1. Set the lens to the widest aperture, in my case 2.8.  This allows for the maximum amount of light to hit the camera sensor during the exposure.
  1. Set your lens to manual focus and turn the focus ring around to infinity, this will ensure everything is in focus.
  1. Set your ISO to around 500 to start with.
  1. Shutter speeds that worked for me ranged from 10 – 30 seconds.
  1. Before taking the image to minimise camera shake use your shutter release, as mentioned above or set the camera timer to 2 seconds.

 

Good luck and happy Aurora hunting…

 

 

 

 

January 5, 2016 Blogging Post a Comment

Views from 37,000 ft

I’ve worked in the skies as cabin crew for British Airways for nearly ten years now, I love nothing more than peering out of the windows and taking photos of the ever-changing world below me.  This is something I never get bored of, it can be quite addictive!  I love checking the moving map on long haul flights to see where we are flying over or if I spot an interesting landscape on a short-haul flight I’ll give the flight crew a call to find out where we’re flying over, this is all in between working of course!  Yes I’m a bit of a geek when it comes to peering out of the window at 37,000ft and I can recognise the south coast pretty well now, keeping a look out for my hometown and giving it a wave has become a bit of a ritual!  Seeing other aircraft in the sky and spotting the London skyline from a distance is fun too.  The northern lights was particularly exciting to see en route to London from Calgary, unfortunately the images were very faint so I decided not to share them but to watch them dancing against the blackness of the sky was incredible. Seeing Kilimanjaro from the air left me awestruck and put into perspective how huge it really is.  The islands and atolls of the Maldives are stunning to fly over, I could watch the powder white sands and sparkling turquoise waters of paradise all day from an aircraft window.  I love a snowy, mountainous landscape so staring at the edge of Greenland and icebergs dotted in the water before endless ocean on the way to America was incredible. There is so much untouched beauty out there!  Catching a glimpse of The Pitons coming into St Lucia was also an exciting moment, I felt like I could reach out and touch them.  Cityscapes are pretty magical too, flying over New York at sunset and being able to make out Manhattan and Central Park so clearly is definitely another highlight.  The other thing I love about working in the sky is that it doesn’t matter how grey and rainy it is in the UK as soon as the aircraft climbs above the clouds it’s always bright and sunny.
Over the years I have collected a ton images from the sky which I’ve not yet shared, from New York to Kilimanjaro, Antigua to the Alps and Greenland to Portugal and not forgetting the good old homeland, the south coast of the UK.  These are a few of my favourite views of the beautiful world below me which I’ve captured from 37,000 ft and inspired me to write this blog….

 

 

December 29, 2015 Barbados, Blogging, Mauritius, UK, USA 2 Comments

My 2015 Travel Highlights…

Wow, 2015 has really flown by!  I’m pretty sure I said this about 2014 as well in last years round-up: Cheers 2014…you’ve been a good’un!  So much has happened this year, I thought it would be fun to look back and to share with you some exciting new developments for the coming year…

 

January
I started the year off with a surf trip in Barbados, the sun was shining and the surf was pumping.  I surfed at Freights and hired a board through Zed’s Surfing Adventures.  Check them out of you are planning a surf trip out there.  This trip was the first time I used my GoPro on a board and I was pretty stoked to have some half decent images and video content.  With the help of my lovely filmmaker husband Matt, we put together a short video of my surf session.
For more reading on my trip head to: Barbados: A Surfers Paradise

 

 

February
A winter break away with a our very good friends Sam and Graham has become a bit of a tradition, last February we spent a long weekend in the quaint fishing village of Port Isaac.  This year I found a cottage through Helpful Holidays in the tiny village of Golant set on the River Fowey in Cornwall.  ‘Island House’ had river views on three sides, underfloor heating and a log burner making it a very cosy cottage.  We were greeted with a bottle of wine and a cake on arrival and spent the weekend on blustery coastal walks and visits to local harbour towns.  This mostly involved eating scrummy treats and drinking lots of cider!  Our favourite place for lunch was Sam’s in Fowey.  Fowey is such a sweet little place, set on the river and full of lovely pubs, quirky shops and art galleries, definitely worth a visit if you are planning a trip to the west country.
 
March
My March highlight was a trip to Antigua, it was very nice to have a clear day down route to be my own boss.  Working as cabin crew I am lucky to get to explore different countries on an almost weekly basis.   With a house move on the cards and feeling a bit tired I spent the day relaxing on the beach, catching some rays and swimming in the warm Caribbean sea.  It was bliss!
 
April
It was Matt’s birthday in April so we decided to do something a bit special and booked a night away at Hotel Du Vin in Poole.  Our room was very plush, with a freestanding bath right in the middle and a massive queen sized bed.  It was a fab weekend and nice to spend some time away together.  We enjoyed exploring Poole harbour by boat and had a very tasty meal at the restaurant in the hotel.  For more on this luxurious weekend click here: A weekend in Poole.
 
May
I was invited to quite a few weddings last year, my favourite was a wedding in Westminster, London followed by a beautiful reception at the Dorchester.  It is one of the world’s most expensive hotels, I was very excited to be there!  The champagne reception was just perfect and the food was incredible, I particularly loved dessert, hence the name of my blog: Dessert at the Dorchester.
May also saw the start of one of many trips with work to Mauritius.  With a fabulous crew who all wanted to do something exciting, we chose to go swimming with dolphins which I wrote about earlier on in the year: Swimming with dolphins in Mauritius.  The crew had already excitedly discussed the plans on the flight over so I knew it was going to be a good trip.  Waking up early we set off for the southern end of the island to Black River.  Jumping in a boat and cruising out to the open water just as the sun was rising we slowed down and sat in silence watching and waiting for the dolphins to appear.  All of sudden the flat water changed as a pod of dolphins broke to the surface cruising right past the boat.  With that we were instructed to jump in and swim…such an awesome experience and what made it even better was knowing that these dolphins had appeared of their own accord, wild dolphins who could stay or go as they pleased.

 

June
Back to Mauritius and this time I went on an adventure to Black River Gorges National Park, I explored rainforests and waterfalls, marvelled at the Seven Coloured Earths, took photos of some epic views and got blessed by a Hindu priest at the sacred lake Grand Bassin.  Topped off with a curry in the evening and a spa treatment the following day, it was a fantastic adventure!
In contrast to Mauritius I had an afternoon to explore Edinburgh in June too, it was a sunny afternoon with a fresh chill in the air.  I took a stroll along the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle taking in all the gorgeous architecture and having a nosey in all the touristy type shops.  On my way back down I stopped in a cosy coffee shop for cake and tea.  I didn’t do all that much but sometimes it’s the simple things that you can take pleasure from and it was a lovely, leisurely afternoon.

 

July
July saw Matt and I off to France, two hours drive from Toulouse we stayed in a Gite in a little village called Loudet.  The week was spent exploring the surroundings and a drive over the border to Spain for Tapas.  We took a gondola in Louchon to a mountain resort, it was strange being up so high without snow!  Exploring gorgeous towns set along alpine rivers, fields of sunflowers and indulging in red wine and cheese, it was just perfect!

 

August
August is my birthday month and I always like to have something exciting planned!  This year we combined a trip to see family in California with an awesome road trip.  We hired a campervan from Wicked campers and went on an eight day adventure.  Starting off in Sequoia National Park we camped under the stars and saw black bears followed by a few nights on the coast near San Francisco and then continued to drive down south along the Big Sur.  It was an unforgettable birthday trip. 
 
September
After coming back from California we had withdrawal symptoms from camping and living outdoors, so we went off for a few days in our own van to Dorset.  With plenty of coastal walks and chilling by the campfire it made us reminisce about our recent American adventure.  It was really nice to have a few days away not so far from home…read more here: A weekend in the Purbecks.

 

October
I started studying for the NCTJ Diploma in Journalism a few years ago as a self – study course but struggled to complete it due to working full-time and undertaking freelance writing work at the same time.  In October I made the decision to pick it up again and so far am really enjoying it.  I really have to be strict with myself as it is a self-study course but hopefully this time next year I will be a qualified journalist!  I am studying with the College of Media and Publishing who are so helpful and really quick over email if I have any questions.

 

November
A hen weekend in Brighton was my November highlight, on the Saturday a ‘Beyonce’ style dance class, afternoon tea and a good old night out were the main events of the weekend.  Staying in a house in central Brighton meant we also got to do some exploring in this quirky seaside town.  We had lunch on the North Laine on the Sunday and believe it or not it was warm enough to sit outside, great for people watching!  The lanes have some very cool, unique shops so went spent some time browsing and window shopping before heading to the seafront just as the sun was setting for a ride on the Brighton Wheel.  We had beautiful panoramic views of the coastline, city and pier; it was a lovely way to end the weekend.

 

December
December saw the launch of my new website which you will be reading this on right now!  I’ve wanted a re-brand for a while and I’m so pleased with how it has turned out.  Andrew at Fix8 designed my logo, he’s done a cracking job at capturing just what my blog is all about. 

 

 

It has been an action packed year of travel but most importantly, I’m so excited to share with you all that Matt and I found out in August that we have a baby Dunkinson cooking!  We had our 20 week scan on 14th December and it looks all good and healthy.  We chose not to find out the sex and are so excited for our new arrival in April!  On that note we have a babymoon planned for January to Iceland!  I wanted to do that this year but haven’t quite managed to fit it in, so January 2016 seemed the perfect time to go away as our last trip abroad as a two…I’m looking forward to letting you know all about our adventures in Iceland and our adventures with a baby in tow!
What has been you favourite trip of 2015?  What are your travel plans for 2016?  Let me know in the comments below and I’d love to hear any tips and things to do in and around Reykjavík and Iceland…Happy New Year and see you all in 2016!

 

December 23, 2015 Blogging, UK 1 Comment

Baubles, tinsel and travel…

It’s the season for sparkle, fairy lights and tinsel; one thing I love to collect from trips abroad is Christmas decorations.  I don’t often purchase many souvenirs from trips, as I am sometimes limited on luggage space so Christmas decorations are great as they are usually small and easy to pack.  I love getting them back out year after year, each one holds a different travel memory for me and I’m looking forward to adding to my collection on future travels…

 

Sequin bauble
This decoration came from a recent trip to Brighton, a reminder of a weekend I spent there on a hen party.  I loved the star sequins in the transparent bauble, very Christmassy…

 

Santa shell
This little beauty came from Barbados, near to Christmas time there is a stall in the airport full of decorations inspired by the Caribbean.  Every time I pass through the airport I want to buy more and more.  I love that this shell decoration came from a hot climate where Christmas has a totally different feel to a cold Christmas in the UK.

 

Santa and gingerbread man
Both of these tree decorations came from Macy’s in Orlando.  I love visiting America at Christmas time as the decorations are so grand and you can really get into the Christmas spirit.  Macy’s always have a fantastic Christmas department and I couldn’t resist buying these for my own Christmas collection.

 

Christmas candle and tea light holders
This candle and holders were also bought in America.  I try to buy a new candle each year and put it away for the following Christmas, I sometimes forget that I’ve bought one so it is a nice surprise when I open my decoration box in December.  This candle is called ‘Twisted Peppermint’ it’s from Bath and Body Works and smells amazing!  The peppermint lingers in the air for a long time and adds a touch of Christmas sparkle to cosy evenings in.

 

Father Christmas Russian doll set
I came across these gorgeous Santa figures in a shop in Warsaw, Poland.  It was full of Russian dolls from floor to ceiling!  I had so much fun exploring the old quarter, drinking coffee outside in a square watching the world go by and strolling around the cobbled streets.

 

Snow Globe
I got this snow globe in Breckenridge, Colorado.  It is such a lovely place, snow, ski slopes and cosy coffee shops.  I would love to spend Christmas in Breckenridge one day, but until then I will have to make do with remembering it by give the snow globe a good shake!

 

Do you have any Christmas decorations from around the globe or any other interesting travel souvenirs?  Let me know in the comments below…
Merry Christmas!
December 14, 2015 New Zealand 1 Comment

Chasing Glaciers…A Helicopter Trip In New Zealand

New Zealand is well-known for its incredible scenery and daredevil activities.  When I visited New Zealand’s South Island last year a glacier helicopter adventure was high up on my list of must do’s.  Using Franz Josef as a base I headed to a helicopter tour operator hoping there would be a space on a trip.  Luckily there was one with spaces for the next day.
The following morning I was a mix of emotions, I was so excited and for some reason slightly nervous at the same time!  Waiting by the helipad just over the road from the hostel I was staying at I looked on excitedly and waited as a helicopter landed, dropped people off and then we jumped in!  The helicopter doesn’t shut down so you have to keep low as you jump in.  I have never actually been so excited in my whole life…and as we took off I felt quite emotional!  I fly all the time in my job as cabin crew but this was my first flight in a helicopter.  With the ability to be so close to the surroundings with what felt like next to nothing in between the mountains and my feet, was breath-taking.
As we left Franz Josef behind, headsets on, we quickly soared high above the snowy peaks.  All of a sudden Franz Josef glacier came into view, Wow!  The views were absolutely breathtaking, huge icy blue spears jutted up from the glacier, as it appeared to be rolling down the mountainside, and if that wasn’t enough we also flew over Fox Glacier, Tasman Glacier and Mount Cook.  Flying alongside Mount Cook and over mountain ridges was incredible, they felt so close, as if I could almost touch them.  It was an out of this world experience and a very surreal one at that.  I tried not to take too many photos so I could just enjoy the moment and take it all in, I was completely blown away by the beauty of these natural wonders.  The deep turquoise and blues of the glacial ice formations looked stunning in the sunlight, it was hard to grasp their enormity from the air.  Whilst buzzing over I spotted people at the top and bright red walkers huts perched right on the edge of the glaciers, everything looked so tiny in perspective to the icy world below.
After soaring above this incredible scenery it was time for our mountain landing.  Somewhere up near Mount Cook we came down to land on what felt like the edge of the earth, pure white snow glistening in the sunlight and crunchy underfoot.  With a few minutes to explore this vividly bright landscape we stepped out on to untouched snow and took some obligatory selfies in front of the helicopter.  After a few minutes it was time to leave this wintry wonderland.  Flying back towards Franz Josef, leaving the mountains behind there was a bit more time to take some final photos before landing back on firm ground…If like me you love flying then this awesome experience will be just your thing.
I booked the flight with Glacier Helicopters, it worked out to be about £200, which is a bit on the pricey side but so worth it. Having travelled to the other side of the world it’s not everyday you get to see glaciers!  The other trip that looked fantastic was a glacier walk.  A helicopter drops you half way up the glacier to walk the rest, you then get picked up again by helicopter from the top.  Have you done this trip or a glacier walk?  If so I’d love to hear all about it!

 

December 10, 2015 Blogging Post a Comment

A Shiny New Website…

I’ve been a bit quiet on the blog over the last few months and that’s because a lot of developments have been going on behind the scenes.  I am very excited to share that I am the proud owner of a shiny new website.  The blog has had a massive makeover and a sparkly new logo to boot!
A massive thank you goes out to Andrew at Fix8 for my fantastic logo design, I am so happy with it.  Luggage tag, campervan, surfboard and planes, Andrew has captured perfectly the essence of my blog and incorporated it all into one gorgeous logo!    The Polaroid style pictures are editable so I can easily create a new feel as and when the mood takes me and I think they serve as great snapshots into my latest and most memorable travels.  Also a huge thanks to Jo at Starboard Media for all the work on my website to make it look just awesome and for hosting it too.
It should now be easier to navigate through the website with the categories along the top and a search bar at the bottom of the homepage.  My Instagram and Twitter feeds are in the footer so you can see instantly what I’ve been blurbing on about through my other social media channels!  I hope you like it and I’d love to hear your thoughts on my new look.
Now for a bit of shameless plugging…I would also doubly love it if you could pop over to Facebook and give my page: Nicola’s Travels a like, I have just set it up and it’s looking pretty sad at the moment as I don’t have an awful lot of likes yet!
I’m looking forward to sharing all my latest updates and adventures on here, if you fancy following along sign up by popping your email address into the subscribe box at the bottom of the page and check out my Instagram and Twitter pages for more updates and travel related posts….

 

 

October 6, 2015 Camping and Glamping, USA 5 Comments

9 Things To Do On The Big Sur…

*Updated July 2026*

The Big Sur stretches roughly from Carmel to San Simeon along California’s stunning coastline for around 85 miles.  It doesn’t have an official start or finish, so I thought this quote from the Lonely Planet guide to California summed it up perfectly: “Big Sur is more of a state of mind than a place.”  I had read so much about this beautiful stretch of coastline along Highway 1 before I arrived in California but I didn’t expect it to be so cut off from the rest of California. It is literally one winding road with ocean on one side and rocky cliff overhangs or forest on the other.  There was pretty much no phone signal on the entire route either.  This is something I actually love when I’m away, that feeling of being totally cut off from the rest of the world for a short time to just be able to completely focus on new surroundings, take it all in and relax.

Matt and I drove Highway 1 from San Francisco to Los Angeles. I would really recommend driving south along the Big Sur with the ocean on the right hand side.  All the lay-bys and viewpoints are on this side of the road so it makes it a lot easier to pull over and pull out again when it is busy.
There is so much to see and do on this part of the Pacific Coast Highway. It could be done in one day but the road is pretty small and slow with sharp corners at times.  Plus with plenty of viewpoints along the way you definitely don’t want to rush.  We stopped for the night at a campground, it really added to the experience.
Here are my 9 favourite things to do…

 

1. See elephant seals

Point Piedras Blancas is the place to stop to see an elephant seal rookery.  Elephant seals can spend up to 10 months at sea and are able to dive an incredible depth of 1000 – 3000 ft.  Males can grow up to 16ft in length and weigh as much as 2300kg.  These magnificent creatures are huge and very noisy!  Watch males tussling in the water for rights over females while the rest snooze and laze around on the sand.  Grunting, snorting and belching are to name just a few of the strange noises that can be heard coming from the beach!  For more information check out: www.elephantseal.org.

 

2. Have a glass of wine at Nepenthe

This lovely little spot has two options for eating and drinking, Nepenthe Restaurant or Café Kevah.  It is the perfect place or excuse to have a rest on your drive with an afternoon beverage and a chance to take in those stunning views.  Both eateries are situated high up with gorgeous views of the rugged coastline and Pacific Ocean.  Matt and I chose to visit the restaurant, as it was higher up, the only trouble was the sea mist had come in and through the fog we could see nothing!  Still, it was nice to stop off and have a glass of rosé.

 

3. Whale watch

There are plenty of opportunities to go on organised whale watching trips along the coastline, Monterey is a great place to book from.  We were lucky enough to spot whales all along the Big Sur.  If you want to save some money pull into a viewpoint and just watch the horizon.  To see whales breaching is an incredible sight, or even just a slight peek of a tail slipping gracefully under the water.  Whale Watchers Café at Gorda Springs Resort was a marvelous place for breakfast on the road.  With ocean views from the café we ate a hearty breakfast and got to spot whales too.

 

4. Bixby Bridge

This bridge is a very famous landmark on the Big Sur. Built in 1932, it is one of the world’s tallest single span concrete bridges, standing proud at 280 ft high.  Driving south there is a lay-by on the right hand side just before the bridge. Although usually very busy with tourists it is definitely worth stopping to take a photo of this very impressive structure.  Whilst I loved this bridge there are others very similar along the route so stop at one of those for views without lots of other people around.

 

5. Go for a walk

There are so many great areas to walk along Highway One; Point Lobos State Natural Reserve was one of my favourites.  Rugged coastline with kelp forests, home to sea lions and sea otters make for an exciting walk.  The park has mapped out trails with plenty of history, hike to Whalers Cove where a whalers cabin still stands and is now a museum.  As well as walking, buy a permit to snorkel or dive amongst the kelp beds, awesome marine life and underwater caves await.  If you are camping in a state park keep hold of your permit as this can be used to park for free in other parks and reserves.

 

6. Pitch a tent (or park up in a van)

One of the cheapest ways to stay overnight on the Big Sur is to camp.  We hired a campervan from Wicked Campers and loved having the freedom to explore and stop where we wanted.  We stayed overnight at Plaskett Creek campground, just over the road from Sand Dollar Beach. Cooking on a campfire and stargazing was a brilliant experience.  The campsite cost a total of $53 for the night, a bargain compared to the hotels along the route.  There are quite a few campgrounds along the Big Sur, my advice would be to book in advance during peak seasons as pitches at the more popular sites can get reserved very quickly.  Having said that a few of the campsites do offer a limited number of pitches to simply turn up and pay for on the day.  Take plenty of layers if camping, as it gets quite cold when the fog comes in.

 

7. McWay Falls

This iconic waterfall is definitely worth stopping for, found in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park this beauty is 80ft high and cascades onto the beach below.  Park up and follow the half-mile trail to the coast, you can also spot whales at this picture perfect spot.  I saw so many images of this iconic beauty before the trip and loved seeing it in real life.  Benches along the trail allow you to sit and take in the beautiful views.

 

8. Watch the sunrise at Sand Dollar Beach

What could be better than watching the sunrise over the ocean with fog hanging over the hills behind and not another soul in sight?  Waking up early in our camper we strolled over the road from Plaskett Creek campground and straight onto the bluff overlooking this crescent-shaped bay.  The waves looked iridescent in the low light and the stillness of the early morning was incredible.  I wish I had, had a surfboard with me as there were some great little peelers breaking out there!

 

9. The drive

The Big Sur is an iconic route, remember don’t rush the drive, take your time and enjoy!  The road can get busy at times and often people behind us wanted to drive faster, so we just pulled over and let them carry on.  Whether you experience it in the sunshine or the fog it is an epic journey and a blanket of fog hanging just above the coastline made for awesome photo opportunities.  Pull over at every opportunity and take in the scenery.  There were fresh fruit stalls at a lot of lay-bys; one day we bought avocados, blueberries and figs.  It was so nice to have a picnic with local produce and stunning views.  Mustangs seemed to be a popular choice of ride all along this stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway, cruising with the roof down looked like a very cool experience.

 

September 23, 2015 Camping and Glamping, USA 2 Comments

Exploring Sequoia National Park…

Updated in April 2025
After a 6 hour drive covering 223 miles from Los Angeles in our very cool Wicked campervan we arrived at Lodgepole campground in Sequoia National Park. Reaching the park we stopped at the ranger hut and paid the entrance fee. (You can now purchase this online before you arrive.) I was surprised to learn there was a 45 minute drive further to the campground, after such a long drive I thought we had arrived! The final part of the drive was beautiful though and made up for the fact that I was done with sitting still for so long!  The road got smaller as it started to wind higher and higher up into the park. Driving through the Giant Forest we got our first sighting of the huge trees that Sequoia is famous for. We continued driving higher up until we arrived at Lodgepole campground, here at 6720 feet above sea level the air felt fresh and clean.
Pulling up at the ranger hut to check in, I noticed a sign showing that there had been 5 bear break – ins in the campground during the past week. I had read about black bears in the area and the need to put all food and scented items in a bear proof box 24 hours a day. I was excited and apprehensive all at the same time about stumbling across a bear and this made it feel all the more real. I still didn’t think that I would actually be lucky enough to have a bear encounter….

 

We found our pitch amongst the trees, complete with a bench, fire pit with a grate for cooking and a bear box. The rush of the nearby river could be heard in the distance, what a fantastic welcome. I wasted no time in putting most of my belongings into the bear box just to be on the safe side! As we settled into our surroundings the light began to fade and the smell of campfires filled the air, encouraging us to set up our own. Lodgepole has a very handy shop within driving distance so we already had our firewood ready to go. All of a sudden we heard the sound of a car horn followed by banging and someone shouting. Matt and I both looked at each other and said at the same time ‘BEAR!’ Rushing over to where the commotion was happening we heard someone saying it was a mother and baby that had been nearby and we just caught a glimpse of them disappearing into the woodland high above the noisy campers. If you come across a bear the best thing to do is apparently stand your ground and make as much noise as you can to scare them off. This explains all the noise we had heard. I couldn’t believe we were only an hour into our stay and had already had a bear sighting. It finally started to sink in that they really were around us! Settling back around the campfire I felt a little uneasy peering into the darkness wondering what was watching us. With nothing but the light from the fire the star trail above was just stunning, laying back on the bench and looking skyward it looked 3D, almost like I could touch each star. Listening to the distant crackles of campfires made me sleepy and after cooking steak and veggies on the fire we retreated to our cosy van for the night.
The following morning we woke up early and sat planning our day with breakfast and coffee. Matt was having a look down towards the river when all of a sudden a bear appeared and strolled along very near to us. He or she didn’t seem to notice us, it was such a special moment as with no one else around we were the only ones to see this beautiful creature. I was not expecting that at breakfast time!

 

With our day planned we put on our walking boots and jumped into the van. The first stop was to see General Grant Tree at Grant Grove. This beauty is the second tallest Sequoia tree in the world. At 268 feet high by 108 feet in circumference, it is huge and very difficult to get a photo of the whole thing! The tallest is the General Sherman Tree also in Sequoia, standing at 274.9 feet. My advice would be to get to Grant Grove early, we arrived mid morning and it was very busy. The General Grant Tree Trail is a short paved trail leading past the Fallen Monarch, a giant hollow Sequoia you can walk through from one end to the other and then continues past General Grant. Interestingly in the 1800s it was used in many different ways from a hotel to a stable for US Cavalry horses.

Next we decided to drive to Buck Rock lookout a fire lookout tower sat up high at 8500 feet. From what I had read in the Lonely Planet Guide to California it has fantastic views but we didn’t quite make it there. We got to an unpaved road which became very dusty and full of potholes. It was only a couple of miles to the lookout but the potholes were never-ending. So, Matt and I decided to leave the van and attempt to walk the final few miles. But in the midday sun it was just too hot and for some reason I had an uneasy feeling; there was no one else around and I had a bit of paranoia about bears! We got round a corner and did spot the tower in the distance, it looked incredible perched high up on a rocky outcrop but was just too far in the heat. There were also huge plumes of smoke from wildfires that were just incredible to witness. We found a shady spot for lunch and drove back to Lodgepole where after checking back into a new pitch (it was so busy I had to reserve two separate sites) we strolled along the gorgeous alpine stream within the campground and had a chilly but refreshing paddle.
The following day it was my birthday, what a novelty it was to wake up in Sequoia, I had bought a few presents and cards with me from home to open too. With a 5 hour journey ahead of us to San Francisco we were keen to get back on the road but also wanted to make the most of this beautiful National Park, so a birthday hike to Tokopah Falls was on the cards.  Setting off early on the 1.7 mile trail to avoid the heat of the sun the walk started just a stones through from where we had been camping. Following the river along through the trees watching out for bears, the walk was very varied. We strolled past alpine meadows, scrambled over rocks and marveled at the huge granite rock formations high above us until we arrived at the falls. We didn’t see another soul on the journey and were pleased to see the falls that marked the end of the trail and still no one else around. It really felt quite magical to be the only ones there. We reached the end of the path and clambered down the huge rock face to sit right by the falls. Although not as powerful as probably during the winter months it was beautiful to see. Sitting back to take in the view from where we had just walked, the valley between the canyon was clear to see. It was such a birthday treat!  The day got even better as we were walking back we stopped for a glug of water and peered down to the river where we spotted a bear. We watched in silence as it crossed the river and started to walk up the embankment towards the path we had just walked along. Holding our breath we took a few steps back as it crossed right over the track and into the undergrowth on the other side. We continued to watch it as it snuffled and foraged.  If it had smelt us it didn’t let on. Such an awesome sight!
Tips and tricks:
  • The $35 entrance pass into Sequoia lasts for 7 days.
  • I made an online reservation for Lodgepole campground before arriving.
  • Fuel up when you can as fuel stations can be few and far between, Stony Creek Village had fuel pumps.
  • There was pretty much no phone service in the park, if you are desperate Stony Creek Lodge had free WiFi.
  • Lodgepole has a well-equipped shop, make sure you buy your firewood there and don’t bring it in from somewhere else, this helps to prevent the spread of disease.
  • There are coin operated showers at the visitor centre in Lodgepole, make sure you’ve got some quarters handy!
I loved everything about camping in Sequoia, the sights, the smells, and the sounds. Sequoia National Park is perhaps overlooked compared to others such as Yosemite. I had not heard of it until I started researching. I also read how busy Yosemite can get during the summer so I opted for Sequoia instead. Give it a go, believe me you won’t be disappointed.
For a round-up of our California road trip take a look at my previous post: Camping in California with Wicked Campers and more to do in Sequoia: 9 things to do in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park.
It was back into the mystery machine and onto the next adventure, San Francisco and the Big Sur…

 

September 10, 2015 Camping and Glamping, UK 2 Comments

A weekend in the Purbecks, Dorset…

I love exploring locally; sometimes I think it’s easy to forget what’s on the doorstep.  So having had withdrawal symptoms from campervan living in California and with the weekend free, Matt and I decided to head to the Purbecks in our van for a mini adventure.  The Isle of Purbeck or the Purbecks for short is nestled nicely on the Jurassic coast in Dorset.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001 the Jurassic Coast got its name due to its impressive geology….and runs for 95 miles all the way to Devon.  You can actually walk the whole thing along the South West Coast Path.
We stayed at Burnbake campsite near Corfe Castle.  The campsite does not take reservations and there are no marked pitches so turn up, pick a spot that takes your fancy and that’s it!  The campground has a small shop on site, a toilet and shower block, washing up facilities, laundry room and a pop up café with a tent and log burner.  The cafe serves up a great English breakfast for £5.  The cost was £12 per night for one adult with a tent and car or campervan plus £6 per extra person.  Burnbake allows campfires but they must be contained, we hired a fire pit for £4 and bought logs from the shop, perfect!

 

Worth Matravers was at the top of my list of places to visit.  It is a tiny village full of Purbeck stone cottages, a duck pond, tea rooms and the Square and Compass pub.  From there we followed the coastal path to Winspit quarry on the edge of the cliffs.  It is very popular with climbers and also has some very dark, eerie caves to explore.  We continued along to the National Coastwatch Institution lookout station and St Aldhelm’s Chapel.  This 13th century chapel is still in use today and has very old graffiti on the stone walls inside, some of which from what I could make out were from the 16th century!  This lovely walk was around 5 – 6 miles and only one thing was on our mind on the way back…a cider and pasty at the Square and Compass.  We made it back to Worth Matravers and went straight to the pub for our well-earned treats!  I love the fact that this pub only serves pies and pasties, so simple!  It also randomly has a small fossil museum inside, a great showcase of all the amazing fossils and artefacts uncovered along this magnificent stretch of coast.

 

A Sunday stop off at Lulworth Cove and lunch at the Lulworth Cove Inn was a nice way to finish the weekend before heading home.  This perfect horse shoe shaped bay has crystal clear turquoise water and is beautiful all year round.  There are some fantastic walks along the cliff top from the cove, we just had enough time to go on my favourite stroll to Durdle Door before we said goodbye.
More things to do in Dorset...
Corfe Castle, towering high above the village of Corfe this is a great place to stop for a photo opportunity, we didn’t have time to climb up but I loved seeing the imposing ruins on the drive to and from the campsite.
Poole harbour is another great spot for exploring, having lunch or for a weekend break.  We stayed at Hotel du Vin right in the harbour for Matt’s birthday earlier this year: A weekend in Poole, Dorset.  The sun was shining and a lovely boat trip around Brownsea Island rounded off the weekend nicely.
Swanage has a steam railway, which travels 6 miles from Swanage to Norden, one of the stops on the line is Corfe Castle, this would make for a great day out.  Buy a day ticket or spend an evening dining on it,  I’ve not had the chance to go on it yet but I would love to experience the dining train.
Dorset has the prefect mixture for adventure with coast, valleys, rugged cliff tops and tiny village hideaways to explore.  There is so much to do in this beautiful area I still need to go back for more!