Author: Nicola Dunkinson

March 21, 2017 Iceland Post a Comment

9 things you need to do in Iceland….

Iceland is one of the most incredible countries I have visited.  Found on the edge of the arctic circle winters are chilly with very little daylight and summers are bright and warm as Iceland becomes the land of the midnight sun.  Whichever time of the year you choose to visit you are sure to have a blast. Breathtaking landscapes, very friendly locals and the lovely city of Reykjavík full of nordic charm, cool bars and quirky places to eat are sure to win you over.  Iceland is easy to get around, hire a car, catch a bus from the airport or book on to a small group tour with transport provided.  There is so much to see and do in Iceland so to help you plan your own trip here are my favourites…

 

1. See the Northern Lights
If you go to Iceland during the winter look out for the Northern Lights, watching them dance across the nights sky, ever-changing in shape and colour is unforgettable.  The Icelandic Met Office is a great website for checking the Aurora forecast and upcoming weather conditions.  It has a helpful scale to indicate the likeliness of seeing the lights.  Hunt for them yourself or go out with a guide.  When I was in Iceland last year I went on a Super Jeep tour with Iceland Travel, it was a fantastic night.  Not only did I see the Northern Lights I also got to experience the thrill of exploring Iceland at night in a Super Jeep.  Huge wheels meant the 4×4 could plough through the deepest of snow drifts and go where others couldn’t.  We stopped at two different locations and got to witness a lot of Aurora Borealis action, once they disappeared at the first location we moved on to the next.  Finishing off the night with a hot chocolate topped with an optional glug of vodka helped to keep us warm in the freezing weather conditions.

 

2. Swim in a hot spring
Iceland is famous for its geothermal activity and what better way to celebrate this than with a dip in a hot pool.  The Blue Lagoon is Iceland’s most famous geothermal spa, located in a lava field it is a must visit.  This is not the only hot pool though, there are plenty of others to be discovered.  The Blue Lagoon was sadly closed for refurbishment when Matt and I were in Iceland, so we visited the Secret Lagoon instead, a lovely small geothermal pool which we stopped at while exploring the Golden Circle.

 

3. Climb to the top of Hallgrímskirkja
The very impressive Hallgrímskirkja church can be seen throughout Reykjavík, its magnificent structure was designed to look like the volcanic basalt stacks which can be spotted around Iceland.  Inside, the beautiful architecture continues and includes a huge organ with 5275 pipes.  Take the lift to the top of the 73 metre tower, it costs 900 ISK (around £6) and is well worth it.  The views of Reykjavík and the surrounding landscape are breathtaking.

 

4. Walk on a glacier
It’s not everyday you get to visit a glacier and Iceland is the place to do it.  Mýrdalsjökull glacier near Vik was incredible to see and get up close to.  Unfortunately as I was six months pregnant I couldn’t hike it but it was fun to watch others making the trek up and along this impressive landscape.  Hearing the cracks and seeing the incredible blues of the ice is just out of this world.  If you get the chance to walk on one, do it!

 

5. Walk along the black sand on Reynisfjara Beach
This beach near Vik is famous for its black sand, caused by volcanic activity it is a beach like no other and worthy of taking plenty of photos.  Stroll along the mysterious shoreline looking out for the huge basalt columns jutting out from the cliffs and the basalt stacks out at sea.  Icelandic folklore suggests that mischievous trolls trying to drag a ship to shore were unwittingly turned into these imposing structures.  Watch out for the waves here, there are dangerous undertows and the water can be unpredictable.  Be sure to stay out of the water and admire it at a safe distance from the shoreline.

 

6. Stroll between tectonic plates
Walking between tectonic plates is a unique experience, head to Þingvellir National Park (Thingvellir) the sight of the world’s oldest parliament for a great walk full of beautiful views.  Walk through Almannagjá canyon created by the division of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.  For more information take a look at Þingvellir National Park website.

 

7. Watch Strokkur geyser exploding
A highlight of the Golden Circle, this geothermal area is awesome!  Water bubbles away at 100ºC and huge plumes of steam rise from the ground.  Watch the mighty geyser Strokkur explode into action, the giant jet of water erupts every 5 – 10 minutes and is an incredible sight.

 

8. Say hi to the local wildlife
Iceland’s resident horses are very friendly, take the time to stop for a selfie with them amongst the gorgeous landscape.  Standing between 13 and 14 hands high they could be mistaken for ponies, in Iceland they are horses so be sure to get it right or risk offending a local!

 

9. Marvel at the beautiful waterfalls
One of Iceland’s most famous and beautiful landmarks are the waterfalls.  There’s nothing quite like watching water majestically fall over rugged hillsides, especially in the winter with snow underfoot and icicles hanging from the edges of the falls.  My favourites are Gullfoss, which can be seen on a tour of the Golden Circle.  It is one of Iceland’s most popular falls and it’s not hard to see why.  Standing up close to this powerful beauty and watching water thunder down below is an exhilarating experience.  Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss are both found in the south of Iceland.  Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s largest waterfalls, you can get really close to it which is fantastic for capturing photos.  Seljalandsfoss is a must see, go behind the falls for a completely different view point, it is worth noting that the path is often closed in winter months due the danger of slipping.  Whichever waterfall you choose to visit in Iceland you certainly won’t be disappointed!

 

For more on what to see and do in Iceland click on the links below…
What to do with four days in Iceland
Adventures on the Golden Circle
Exploring Iceland’s South Coast
Chasing the Northern Lights in Iceland

 

February 21, 2017 Spain Post a Comment

Expect the unexpected in Alicante…

Narrow cobbled streets, brightly painted buildings with Juliette balconies, Gothic churches and the Museum of Contemporary Art. This was not my expectation when I arrived in Alicante for a hen party. Call me narrow-minded but I was expecting Benidorm with its high-rise hotels and touristy beachfronts. This is, I guess where you would expect to go on a hen party, so finding the complete opposite I was very pleasantly surprised. We began by exploring the lovely old town of Alicante and found ourselves right in the hustle and bustle of the very traditional Easter celebrations that were going on. Crowds of people were lined up along the streets to watch the parades and processions. Being a Catholic community it was clear to see that a lot of time and effort had been put into the celebrations. A masked procession on Easter Friday included people in long red robes with pointed hats, to me this appeared quite sinister. I have since learnt that they represent the people of Nazareth and are masked to show mourning. Huge biblical figures carried on floats and marching bands also joined the procession. I felt really lucky to have seen these celebrations, it is interesting to discover how other countries celebrate certain events.
Leaving the parades behind we made our way through the cobbled streets and found our accommodation. It was an amazing two-storey apartment at the top of a lovely old building, full of character and charm; topped off by a fantastic roof terrace. The panoramic views of the old town, the ocean and Castle of Santa Barbara were incredible. Breakfast up on the terrace was just perfect; bread, cheese, cured meats, orange juice and the sounds of the church bells tolling as the town awoke. My daily visit to the tiny corner shop, to stock up on goods for our apartment was interesting, let down by my bad Spanish skills I had to mime an action to ask for toilet paper. Luckily the friendly shopkeeper saw the funny side of it and loved teaching me a few words, that day I learnt the Spanish word for ‘bottom’! All I can say is that I’m glad I was the only one in the shop at the time!
I’m a real food lover and eating out in Alicante was everything I wanted it to be, Tapas bars, Paella and fresh fish. Lovely squares with alfresco dining, topped off by very friendly locals, you couldn’t ask for more. I loved exploring and getting lost in the narrow streets, this led to some great discoveries such as a local market, beautiful churches and the Museum of Contemporary Art.
In contrast to the solemness of the parades during the day, the evenings are seen as a time for celebrating. As a result, all the bars stayed open until very late. This equalled lots of partying for the hens!
The trip was the total opposite of what I expected and ended up being a very cultural weekend, at the same time as being a lot of fun. It has opened up my eyes and taught me to think twice about visiting and exploring places that I might already have certain opinions about.  As this trip showed me those views can sometimes be very wrong!
Head over to Lonely Planet for more on this beautiful part of the world.
February 17, 2017 Camping and Glamping, USA 2 Comments

9 things to do in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park…

*Updated July 2026*

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park in California is located high up in the Sierra Nevada mountain range. There are two entrances into the park, the 198 from the Ash Mountain entrance is my favourite. With 130 curves on the drive and 12 switchbacks it is quite an experience! The road climbs quickly up in altitude (you can feel your ears popping) with some fantastic views of the mountains and further up the enormous trees.  It’s probably not the best route to take if travelling in a large RV though.  The other entrance, Big Stump is a slightly easier drive on the 180 from Fresno and a more direct route into Kings Canyon.  Entrance to the park costs $35 for 7 days, purchase a pass online. Fuel up on the drive in, on the 180 there’s a fuel station in Dunlap or at Three Rivers on the 198.  Once in Sequoia there is no fuel except for Stony Creek Village in the summer. The only other option is Hume Lake, 11 miles from Grant Gove Village, outside the national park boundary. Two parks in one, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are famous for the huge trees which grace the high country forests here.  Sequoias are the largest trees in the world and live for thousands of years, some of them are so big you can walk through them. Read on for my nine must do’s up in the High Sierra.

 

1. Climb Moro Rock

This huge dome-shaped rock has 400 steps carved into the rock face, climb them to reach the top at an elevation of 6725 feet. If that doesn’t sound hard enough, there’s also the altitude to contend with. Everything feels a lot harder work at this height! The route up is an interesting one, the views are beautiful, but I had to keep an eye on my feet! At one point it looks like the path ends, instead you take a sharp right and continue through a narrow passage way between the rock. With only a tiny metal hand rail guarding the edges at some points and sometimes nothing guarding the edge it feels a little scary at times so be sure to wear some decent footwear. But don’t be put off, the 0.25 mile climb is well worth it. There are plenty of spots to stop on the way up to admire the beautiful never-ending views and to catch your breath too. Once at the top the panoramic views are breathtaking, walking along to the end of the rock feels like you are on top of the world. The Great Western Divide, Mount Whitney, huge canyons and Highway 198, twisting and turning up the mountain-side can all be seen. Don’t venture up Moro Rock during thunder storms. It can be extremely dangerous, as being so exposed the rock is a magnet for lightning strikes.

 

2. Drive through a tree

Driving through a tree certainly isn’t something you get to do everyday. Tunnel Log near Moro Rock fell over the road in 1937 and a tunnel 17 feet wide and 8 feet high was cut through it.  Go early to avoid the crowds or slightly out of season to have the tree all to yourself.


3. Sleep in a cabin

A stay in a rustic cabin has to be the ultimate national park experience. Up at 6589 feet surrounded by ancient trees and waking up to crisp, fresh mountain air is wonderful. I loved staying in Grant Grove Cabins. Located in Grant Grove village in Kings Canyon there’s a  shop, post office and a restaurant. No phone signal really makes you feel like you are in the wilderness. If you need to be connected to the world then a short stroll to John Muir Lodge for WiFi and a beer by a roaring fire-place is a nice way to warm up in the chillier months. Whilst charming, the cabin was a little bit rough around the edges, I wouldn’t recommend them for their cleanliness as it leant more on the shabby than the chic! Don’t get me wrong it didn’t ruin our stay. The cabins are in a fantastic location and I loved the quaintness but a simple hoover, dust and scrub could have made our cabin feel a whole lot better. Matt, Emily and I stayed in a duplex cabin with two double beds and a bathroom, there are other cabins too with outdoor log burners.  We would have loved to have stayed in one of these but with a baby decided it would be easier to have our own bathroom, as these ones have shared toilet and shower facilities. Seeing raccoons near our front door was such a novelty. One evening we were having a drink on our porch when we were joined by a family of nine, you don’t see that in England!

 

4. Stargaze

Little to no light pollution in the skies above Sequoia makes it an awesome place for stargazing. Standing outside our cabin at night, I would stare up at the sky for an age not wanting to take my eyes off it for a moment in case I missed something. Shooting stars and millions of twinkles in the fresh night sky with pretty much no light pollution is just incredible to witness.

 

5. Watch the sunset

Find a lookout out point and just take in the views of the Big Sierra as the colours change over the mountains and the sun goes down.  We stopped at a viewpoint along Generals Highway to capture these beauties…

 

6. Walk amongst huge trees

There are so many spots to see big trees, they are hard to miss!  General Sherman Tree in the Giant Forest is the worlds largest tree by volume, with a height of almost 275 feet and a circumference of 102.6 feet it’s a whooper!  To put it into perspective this makes it nearly the same height as the Statue of Liberty.  Grant Grove is home to the General Grant Tree, a short loop passes the tree which is known as ‘The Nation’s Christmas Tree’.  The Fallen Monarch is also on the same loop, you can walk through a huge length of this fallen tree.  The tree trail can get quite busy but take a short stroll off the beaten track and admire these giants all by yourself.

 

7. Go bear spotting

I have visited Sequoia National Park twice, on the first trip in August 2015 Matt and I were lucky to have three black bear sightings. If camping be sure to keep all food and toiletries in a bear box provided to prevent them from being attracted to anything that is scented. Not just food but also toiletries. Anyway back to the sightings…the first sighting was actually in our campground. We had just arrived and parked up our van for the evening when we heard a lot of commotion coming from some other campers. It turns out a mother and baby had wandered into the campground. One of the ways to get them to leave is by making a lot of noise; we just saw their backs as they disappeared. The second sighting was a bear casually strolling a short distance away from our van while we were having breakfast and the third was on my birthday. We were on our way back from a hike to Tokapah Falls when we spotted a bear along the river. We watched it cross over and pass the footpath we were on. It didn’t seem to notice us, or if it did it luckily wasn’t interested in us and foraged around in the undergrowth for a while before disappearing. It was incredible and something I will remember for a long time to come! For info on bear encounters and how to stay safe visit the Sequoia and Kings Canyon website: www.nps.gov.

 

8. Admire the views

Apart from hiking another way to explore Sequoia is by car. Spot huge trees to have selfies by and pull over for beautiful panoramic mountain and forest views. Make time to stop at viewpoints on Generals Highway, there are some great spots with beautiful views of the High Sierra. Panoramic Point at Grant Grove Village is the place to see Kings Canyon in all its glory, at 7520 ft it’s high up! Mountain peaks, valleys and Hume Lake can all be spotted and benches are conveniently placed to sit and admire the view. Hume Lake in Sequoia National Forest is a 20 minute drive from Grant Grove Village, it’s a nice area for lunch and a stroll.  The drive is also a very scenic one, there are incredible lookout points over Kings Canyon and the twisting Scenic Byway to Cedar Grove below.

 

9. Take a hike

There are so many places to walk in Sequoia, from short strolls to overnight back country hikes. My favourite walk has to be the trail to Tokopah Falls from Lodgepole Campground. At just over 4 miles there and back it’s such a scenic hike. Huge granite cliffs tower high above as you pass through forest along the Kaweah River and by alpine meadows. It’s a steady climb up to the falls through a glacial valley. There’s a point where the trail turns into a short clamber around some giant boulders, but that just adds to the fun! The trail finishes at the falls, so sit and just take it all in. The water cascades down a steep rock face, look back towards the trail and the whole valley opens up. Just beautiful! Look out for bears too, Matt and I spotted one by the river on the walk back. If this is the only walk you do whilst in Sequoia then you won’t be disappointed, it ticks all the outdoor adventure boxes! Another nice walk is Dead Giant Loop which starts from the Grant Tree parking lot. It’s a nice walk to escape the General Grant Tree crowds and a short and straight forward one too. A 2.2 mile round trip through forest and along Lion Meadow leads to a viewpoint overlooking Sequoia Lake. It is a very peaceful place to stop for lunch and although not a long walk it had a nice feeling of remoteness.
For more on things to do in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park and camping on the coast in California check out my other posts:
Exploring Sequoia National Park
Camping in California with Wicked Campers
9 things to do on the Big Sur
January 8, 2017 Baby Travel, UK 2 Comments

A lovely long weekend in Cheddar, Somerset….

Hollies Cottage, Somerset
There’s nothing better than sitting by an open fire in a cosy cottage while the weather outside is cold and grey, that was made even better with a glass of champagne on New Years Eve! Matt, Emily and I spent a long weekend in Cheddar over the New Year, Hollies Cottage; our very cosy cottage was our bolthole for a lovely mini break.  Located in the village of Draycott five minutes drive from Cheddar it was in a perfect spot for exploring the area and was well equipped with everything we needed including a travel cot and high chair. Cheddar is famous for Cheddar Cheese and also Cheddar Gorge, the UK’s largest gorge, the chocolate box town is nestled in between a steep valley. The gorge itself is very impressive to drive through, the huge imposing rocky cliffs looked even more impressive on a grey day. The village has some nice coffee shops, cafes and restaurants along with shops selling as you can probably guess, cheese and a handful of touristy type shops. There are also two caves in Cheddar which are open to the public, both are really interesting. For £19 you get entry into Gough’s Cave and Cox’s Cave, The Museum of Prehistory, The Lookout Tower, The Cliff Top Gorge Walk and an open top bus tour during the summer.  If you buy tickets online prior to the day you are going you can get a 15% discount. Gough’s Cave is the larger and my favourite of the two, learn all about the history of the cave with a personal audio guide and see cheese maturing inside. We loved the cliff top gorge walk; the three-mile loop has stunning views of the Mendips and goats grazing on the cliff edges, we bumped into friends here too! After our day in Cheddar we headed back to Draycott and stopped off at the Cider Barn. This quirky ‘pub’ is a must visit, local ciders, homemade pork pies on the bar, a simple menu and log burner made it our venue of choice most afternoons on the way back to our cottage. Not one to be landlocked we also explored the coast; Weston-super-Mare was a 25 minute drive. Huge stretches of sand you can drive on and neat beach huts all lined up in a row was a lovely surprise, it was just a shame about the weather!
I loved Cheddar, the perfect place for a cosy winter getaway and a nice way to see in 2017.

 

December 31, 2016 Baby Travel, Iceland, UK, USA Post a Comment

Iceland, America and a baby, 2016 has been a good’un!…

This year has been an incredible one, I’ve done less travelling than usual due to being on maternity leave but having Emily has made it the loveliest year for me and being able to take her on adventures around the world even better. I thought I’d look back on the travels and adventures of 2016 and reflect on the differences with a mini adventurer in tow!

 

January: Iceland
January started off with a trip to Iceland, being 6 months pregnant this was our ‘babymoon’ and the last time I planned to fly before my due date in April. Matt and I spent four days in the Arctic Circle, what an amazing place! We stayed at Loft Hostel in the centre of Reykjavík and explored a lot on foot, the views of the city from the top of the church, Hallgrimskirkja were one of my highlights here. We were lucky enough to see the northern lights on a super jeep tour, drinking hot chocolate while watching the aurora borealis dance across the night sky was an amazing experience. A trip to the south coast included a stop at Reynisfjara, the black sand beach near Vik, seeing waterfalls such as Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s largest and Eyjafjallajökull the volcano that erupted in 2010. My favourite sight on the south coast was walking along the base of a glacier, hearing it crack as it moved and taking photos of the ice blue formations was incredible. On a tour of the Golden Circle we walked between fault lines at Þingvellir National Park, watched the mighty Strokkur geyser explode every few minutes and took photos of Gullfoss waterfall in the freezing cold! The day was rounded up perfectly with a trip to the Secret Lagoon; the Blue Lagoon was closed during our trip so this was the next best thing. Unfortunately I couldn’t go into the hot pool as I was pregnant but Matt loved floating around in the steamy water.

 

What to do with four days in Iceland
Exploring Iceland’s South Coast
Adventures on the Golden Circle in Iceland
Chasing the Northern Lights in Iceland
Review: Loft Hostel Reykjavik, Iceland
Northern Lights Photography Tips

 

 

February: London
In February, Matt and I went to London for a few nights for a wedding and explored Islington, Shoreditch and the market at Spitalfields. Having lived in London for three years while I was at university it was nice to go back and visit areas I had not been to before. We tried out some really great restaurants and cafes and ate a lot of good food!
A foodie weekend in London

 

 

April: Emily
April saw the arrival of Emily Louise Dunkinson weighing 6lb 1oz and since then it’s been a whirlwind eight months! Matt and I have always said that we would carry on travelling with a baby but were a little apprehensive about how this would pan out. Once we’d got our heads around the extra packing (who knew someone so small could need so much) we were good to go!
Emily
Flying with a baby

 

August: Cornwall
We started off with a road trip to Cornwall in August; I had a surf and yoga day planned with professional surfer Corinne Evans in Newquay. It was the first time I had surfed since being pregnant, it was so nice to get back on a board and meet some like-minded ladies. Three nights in Cornwall meant there was time for lots of beach walks and relaxing too and Emily at four months old seemed to love her first trip away.
Surfing in Cornwall with Corinne Evans

 

September: Italy
In September we went to Italy for two weeks to explore the southern region of Puglia. This was Emily’s first flight and it took a while to get my head round all the palaver of what liquids we could take through airport security and how she would be on the flight. Thankfully she was such a good girl and slept a lot, leaving Mum and Dad time for a celebratory G & T! Puglia was beautiful; we stayed in a traditional trullo building and visited some gorgeous towns, swam in the turquoise Mediterranean, strolled around cobbled streets full of white washed buildings and enjoyed spending time with Emily and her grandparents. Eating and drinking was high on the agenda here too, with freshly picked figs and almonds from the trullo gardens and Aperol to be sipped by the pool it was a very indulgent two weeks!
How to spend two weeks in Puglia
Exploring the trulli town of Alberobello

 

October/November: America
During October and November we spent some time in America. Visiting family in California was so nice and Emily got to meet her cousins for the first time. Being in America for Halloween was fantastic, fancy dress and trick or treating in a neighbourhood that pulls all the stops out was an awesome experience! Matt, Emily and I also went on a road trip to Sequoia National Park. The 7 hours drive was well worth it as our rustic cabin high up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains at 6,500 feet was very welcoming. Stargazing, taking photos of giant trees, hiking with some incredible views, driving through a tree, watching the sunset behind the mountains and climbing the 400 steps to the top of Moro Rock are just some of the adventures we had there, all with Emily strapped to our backs! Back on the coast we watch surfers at Swamis, enjoyed brunch in Encinitas and visited Temecula for wine tasting and lunch. I was blown away with how well Emily coped with jetlag, she seemed to do better than me and she was so good on the long flights.
As any parent is aware it takes time to adjust to looking after a tiny human and it has been hard to keep up with writing on my blog along with my freelance work at the same time as being a Mum. I’ll often put Emily down for a nap with grand plans of getting some work done and a blog post, then I’ll hang some washing up, make a cuppa, sit down, feel all like ‘yeah I’ve got this being a Mum and writing thing nailed’ jot down a paragraph and then Emily will wake up!  I’m not complaining as I am completely in love with her, I think it’s just something I’m still learning to get used to. So my new years resolution is to stop beating myself up about it!

 

December: Somerset

I’m writing this today from Somerset, Matt, Emily and I are staying in a cosy cottage near Cheddar and will be seeing in the new year sat in front of the log burner in the lounge with a bottle of champagne. Travel plans for 2017 are already in motion with the first being a trip to France we’re going with friends by ferry from Portsmouth to Caen. We are staying in a lovely apartment in the fishing village of Port-en-Bessin-Huppain overlooking the seafront near Normandy which is famous for the D-Day Landings. I’ll be going back to work too, which right now seems like a terrifying prospect but at the same time I’m really look forward to flying again and visiting some new destinations, Peru, Costa Rica and Cape Town are just a few of the new routes I’ll be exploring when I return. As cabin crew I think I’ve never really got used to the idea of being ‘grounded’. Having said that I have got used to being in a ‘normal’ routine at home now so it will be interesting to see how I get on with weekly jetlag and 3am starts! But I’m sure surfing in Barbados, shopping in Orlando and a whole nights sleep all to myself will help me get through it! There will be at least one longhaul adventure for the three of us too, Matt and I are currently mulling over some options so watch this space.
Cheers to new adventures in 2017 and Happy New Year to you all!

 

November 26, 2016 Published Work, Surfing Post a Comment

Surfing in Cornwall with Corinne Evans…

 

Back in August I joined some other like-minded ladies on Corinne’s Surf Tour in Newquay, Cornwall.  Corinne is a professional surfer and an awesome coach, having not surfed for over a year the day really inspired me and gave me the confidence to jump back on a surfboard and catch some waves.  The day started with a spot of yoga outside overlooking Great Western Beach, followed by the first surf session.  A lunch stop to refuel got us all ready for the final surf of the day and to round it all up Corinne held a lovely little prize giving.  We each got given a bag filled with some gorgeous goodies too, I love a goody bag!  I’m really excited to share my experience of the day over on the surf tour page:  Corinne’s Surf Tour.
October 16, 2016 Italy 1 Comment

How to spend two weeks in Puglia, Italy…

Puglia is a dreamy region found at the bottom of Italy’s heel, fly into either Bari or Brindisi to reach it.  I’ve just spent two weeks in Puglia and loved every minute, our first week was all about relaxing in a Trullo with our own pool while the second was spent by the coast in Otranto.

 

Ostuni trullo:
Our trullo was hidden away and pretty hard to find! Needless to say it was well worth the hunt, and around a mile or so along a tiny and rather bumpy ‘country road’ we arrived at the most gorgeous little spot. ‘Trullo Tranquillo‘ (the name says it all) had its own pool and although in the middle of nowhere it was only around a 20 minute drive to the towns of Ostuni and Cisternino.
Trullo houses are traditional stone and white washed buildings with a dome-shaped roof, native to this area. They were originally used as temporary out buildings and dwellings which could be easily dismantled and moved to avoid paying taxes.
Surrounded by nothing but olive trees and almond groves and with our own pool the trullo gave us plenty of time to relax, sunbathe have some pool time and do nothing for a little while….or for at least as long as our 5 month old would snooze for anyway! Breakfasts consisted of freshly picked figs, almonds and prickly pears from trees around the trullo.  For lunch it was pasta or pizza out and about and evening meals were spent sat outside with caprese salads and meats cooked on the barbecue.  Staircases on the outside of the trullo led to a roof terrace which had fantastic views. Looking out over olive trees you could make out other trullis in the distance and Ostuni lit up and looking pretty at night.  It was also the perfect spot for watching the sunset and for stargazing, with hardly any light pollution around the night sky sparkled.  Inside, the trullo was connected to a newer extension, two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a well equipped kitchen meant we had everything we needed. Matt and I were sleeping in the trullo part, our bed was in one of the smaller stone domes, it was nice and cool in the evenings and with no windows very dark too. The trullo came with a cot, which was great as we didn’t need to worry about bringing our own. We for obvious reasons didn’t pack a baby bath so used the kitchen sink for Emily’s bath time, which worked perfectly! It was such a novelty to live in this traditional stone building for a week.  Our water supply came from 320 meters below and an outdoor shower made for a unique morning wake up, there’s nothing quite like showering with views of neighbouring almond groves!

 

Exploring Puglia by car is an easy way to get about and see not only the delightful Italian countryside but also Puglian towns with their beautiful architecture and squares with coffee shops and gelato stops. My favourites were:
Alberobello: This trulli town is a must visit while in Puglia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 1500 trullo buildings adorn the hillside and really are a sight like no other.  White washed stone and dome-shaped roofs with colourful flowers in hanging baskets make for a pretty picture.  Strolling the streets it’s clear to see why this is such a popular spot.  Souvenir shops, restaurants and wine bars are all waiting to be discovered inside but I just loved taking in the beautiful architecture. For more on my day in Alberobello click here: Exploring the trulli town of Alberobello.

 

 

Ostuni: Named ‘Citta Bianca’ or White City this divine town is full of white stone buildings, tiny cobbled streets, buildings with julitte balconies and a 15th century cathedral.  Puglia is well-known for its olive oil and there are plenty of shops selling it here, a nice souvenir to take home.  Ostuni has some lovely squares perfect for coffee and dining alfresco. A pizza and lunchtime beer were on the cards when we visited. On Saturdays a huge market lines the streets with stalls selling everything from clothes to kitchen crockery and a vast food section with fresh local produce, meats and cheeses.

 

 

Otranto:
After a week inland it was time to head to the coast, a 1 hour and 30 minute drive saw us arrive in Otranto, this gorgeous place has everything, beautiful beaches, an impressive old town, a port and more gelato stops than you could get round to trying in one week.  Crystal clear waters, perfect for swimming and snorkelling meant this week was very different to our trullo stay.  Our apartment was a short stroll from the town, the views of the harbour and the old town made for a pleasant walk in. Our favourite beaches were Lido Camillo right in the centre of Otranto, here we paid 25 Euros for two sunbeds and an umbrella. Although pricey you also get the use of changing rooms and toilets.  There are normal public beaches to use too, but it was nice for a treat to hire sunbeds.  The water was so calm, clear and shallow, it was just bliss to paddle or swim in.  Lido Atlantis, slightly out-of-town was a bit cheaper than the ones in the centre and was another favourite.  The ocean on this side was a little rougher and there were lots of rock pool for exploring, plus a very nice bar for a beer on the beach.  The old town is fortified by huge walls and has plenty of italian charm, shops, bars and restaurants line cobbled streets and the small streets meander up to the cathedral and castle.  The cathedral is a must visit, dating back to 1088 it has stunning mosaics on the floor and beautiful art work inside.  The cathedral holds a shrine with bones of the 813 Otranto Martyrs encased in glass.  Another must visit is Grotta della Poesia, 30 minutes drive north from Otranto near Roca this natural pool has crystal clear waters.  A thrilling way to get in is to take the plunge and jump 15 feet into the sinkhole or if like me you don’t feel brave enough there are steps carved into the rock for easier access!  Arrive early to avoid the crowds and have this incredible blue plunge pool all to yourself.  There are lots of beach restaurants and lovely lidos to stop off at along this stretch of the coast too along with some gorgeous rocky outcrops perfect for a dip.
From the countryside to the coast, this trip was a perfect mix of the two. Exploring quaint Puglian towns and relaxing on a calm coastline meant we had the best of both worlds.  If you are planning a trip to this part of Italy you will love Puglia!

 

October 4, 2016 Italy 1 Comment

Exploring the trulli town of Alberobello, Italy…

One of the highlights of my trip to Italy was a visit to Alberobello in Puglia, easily reached in around one hour from both Bari and Brindisi.  This region is well-known for its trulli buildings, which can be spotted throughout the countryside.  Dating back to the 14th century these dome-shaped buildings are constructed from dry stone masonry and a conical roof.  They were often used as out buildings or dwellings and were designed to be dismantled and moved for tax avoidance purposes.  In the pretty town of Alberobello 1500 trulli cover the hillside and are such a unique sight. Alberobello is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, trulli can be seen throughout the Valle d’Itria but this is the most to be found in one area. I loved exploring the quaint streets and couldn’t stop taking photos of this beautiful town. A viewpoint opposite the town was a fantastic place to capture images of tiny trullo rooftops, head for Piazza del Popolo to find it, look out for viewing areas on the trulli rooftops too. A lot of the trulli in Alberobello are residential, while in the more touristy parts they are wine bars, souvenirs shops and restaurants. The most photographed street has to be Monte Pertica Street, the trullo houses there have symbols painted on the cones these symbols are supposedly of religious or mystical connotations. I also loved looking up, the tips of the trulli and the blue skies made for picture perfect photos. Although busy it was easy to escape the crowds, arrive early to avoid the coach tours and be sure to stop off for an iced coffee, such a refreshing way to cool off from the midday sun!
For more on what to see and do in the Puglia region head to my post: How to spend two weeks in Puglia, Italy…
August 30, 2016 Baby Travel 3 Comments

Flying with a baby…

The time has come to take Emily our four month old on her first proper adventure. We are off to Italy tomorrow to the Puglia region for two weeks of sunshine, exploring and hopefully a little relaxation too. This will be our first time flying with her and although I’m not feeling anxious about it, it definitely isn’t as easy as just packing a suitcase for two, jumping in the car and then relaxing on the aircraft with a G&T and Lonely Planet guide! (Hopefully there might be a little of this as we are going with Emily’s grandparents so I’m sure they are looking forward to some quality Emily time on the aircraft and beyond!) Anyway I’ve been doing quite a bit of research about flying with a baby in the build up to our trip and have found all sorts of useful info and tips, which I thought I would share…
Here’s my Baby travel checklist:
  • Pre order baby formula to Boots stores airside in UK airports and pick it up after security. It is possible to take baby milk and food through airport security, although you maybe asked to open and taste it. You can of course take baby food and liquids but having not gone through airport security with a baby before I’m unsure how strict they are so this would be an easier option. When ordering on the Boots website you can pre-pay and choose the collection date.
  • For steralising bottles, dummies etc, I’ve just discovered these genius Steriliser bags, wash up your bits and bobs, fill the bag with 60ml of water and pop it in the microwave. There are also the Milton solo travel steriliser that doesn’t require a microwave. Just add water and one quarter of a Milton sterilising tablet to complete the process.
  • For a long time I’ve been looking for a small, lightweight stroller to travel with. I came across the Mothercare XSS Stroller and then discovered that it was no longer available to purchase due to Mothercare closing down. The original price was £129, which I was fully prepared to pay but after scouring the Internet for weeks in search of it I eventually found one on eBay. I was so pleased to have got it for £50. This stroller is brilliant, it only weighs 3.9kg, comes with a carry bag and folds up so small that it can be put into an overhead locker on an aircraft!
  • Many airlines will allow passengers with infants to check-in a car seat, buggy, travel cot or push chair at no extra charge, this takes the strain off wondering how you will pack all these extras. We are flying with easyJet to Italy, they allow two baby items for free, anything extra can be purchased as hold luggage. Children over the age of two are allowed the same baggage allowance as adults. With an infant under two a small changing bag is allowed. We have chosen to take a car seat and out stroller, as I mentioned the stroller has its own bag but I’ve purchased a bag to protect the car seat in the hold.
  • Families are often given the opportunity to board the aircraft first, great for getting sorted out and settled in your seats. AND relax!  We have also paid for upfront seats with easyJet, which allows you to board first and also take on a handbag or rucksack as well as a wheelie case.  Perfect when travelling with children, who knew such a small person could need so many things!! Not to mention her wardrobe, I’m sure Emily has more clothes than me!
  • Instead of taking our bulky changing bag I bought a compact changing mat and organizer that’s small enough to carry in my own bag, a great little invention if you are limited on space.
  • I’ve packed toys, bottles and dummies in my hand baggage to keep Emily entertained in the air, having something to suck is a good idea for babies during descent to help them equalize the pressure in their ears.
Useful websites:
  • Travel Mamas – This is a fantastic website with so much on family travel.
  • Taylor Hearts Travel and The Travel Hack both have fantastic blogs on travelling with a baby in tow, I’ve found them so helpful when planning this trip, check them out!
The last trip Matt and I took was a ‘babymoon’ in Iceland when I was 6 months pregnant, it was an exciting adventure, northern lights spotting, glacier walking and hunting out incredible waterfalls, it was a great last trip before I got too pregnant to fly and a really different trip, plus our final trip away as a two. This trip is going to be completely different and I’m looking forward to making new memories with our mini adventurer in tow!

August 11, 2016 Surfing 3 Comments

Corinne’s Surf Tour – Newquay…

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I joined Corinne’s Surf Tour this weekend in Newquay at Towan Beach, after interviewing Corinne about the girls only tour and all things surf I was really excited to take part. The day started with a yoga session, great for stretching and preparing the mind and body for catching some waves. The POW Energy Water and Hemp Bar from Myprotein on each mat was a very nice touch, perfect for fuelling up and getting ready for surfing. After yoga it was time to pull on our wetsuits and head for the waves, partnering up to carry boards down to Great Western Beach I got chatting to some of the other girls, we all instantly clicked and had a lot in common, I knew it was going to be a great day.  My aims for the session were to feel confident in the water again, having had a year and a half off from surfing and a baby four months ago I was feeling a little nervous about getting back on a board and seriously doubted my fitness level! Once on the beach we were split into two groups, one for beginners and the other for girls who could already surf. After a quick recap I put my nerves aside as I paddled out and caught my first wave. I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly it all came back to me. Depending on how well I got on I hoped to be out back on the green waves, and I was. Although small the waves were fun and perfect for building up my confidence. In between the swell it was so nice to chat to the other girls, we all gave each other encouragement and celebrated together when we caught waves!  A bit of whooping and cheering goes a long way in the water and helping each other along was a great confidence booster. After a good first session it was time to refuel with some lunch and a tasty smoothie. In the afternoon I had some coaching from Corinne on turning right, something I don’t do that often, as I love a lefty! It felt good to mix up turning on the waves and something I will keep practising. Eventually, we all began to get aching arms from paddling and not wanting the day to end I caught my last wave to the shore. The day was rounded up with a prize giving and Corinne gave each of us a lovely goodie bag full of treats fit for any budding surf girl!
Checkered Photography captured the action on camera; Sarah was in the water with us all day getting some awesome shots of everyone shredding and having fun. I also met surf blogger Kirsty, I’ve been a fan of her blog Kernow Surfgirl for a long time so it was brilliant to finally meet her and chat about all things surf! Surf instructor Betsy was also in the water coaching us along with Corinne, they were both so encouraging and made the experience an awesome one.
The day was fantastic and really boosted my confidence plus I meet some lovely ladies who I’m hoping to keep in contact with and surf with again.   You don’t have to have your own gear to take part, but if you do have a wetsuit and surfboard you can take them along.  If you want to learn to learn to surf or improve your surfing and meet like-minded ladies then sign up for Corinne’s Surf Tour, you won’t be disappointed!
The next surf days are at Saunton Beach in Devon on 17th September and Anglesey, North Wales on 24th September.
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